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The idle was a bit down on my Service 500, so I went to turn it up, but couldn't find the darn idle screw! I do have a few concerns about it. Just recently with all the talk of modding variants of the FCR to fit the DRZ it sparked a passion for me to drag out the old girl and give her a chance. Thanks in advance for your time. HDPE seemed to be the best thing to hand. Dirt - Dirt Rider Magazine By karel kramer February 24, 2009 A Carb rebuild with Dr. And thanks for your videos! it is a perfect fit over the engine side and the drz clamp can be used. Once the throttle shaft has been removed the TPS housing can be removed. For me I didnt want to spend a single penny on an unknown carb that was still uncertain to work so I made my own. the shiny part is what needs to be removed. Hope it’s ok I ask a question? First thing I did was remove the TPS housing but in doing so you lose the idle stop and adjuster. I then used files and sand paper to reduce the shaft diameter. After cramping it into the press and left to cool for a few hours you get a billet of HDPE. with only a few hours left and zero bids I won it. this part is very tricky with the potential to ruin the carb if it goes wrong. Take your time and it should all go smoothly. Have any comments or questions? From the dimensions I took at the start I mocked one out of some birch ply to test the shape and fit. Thread lock holds it in place. next remove the outer casing screw, again thread lock holds it in place. If you end up at 1 turn or less, decrease pilot jet size. On FCR carbs the main jet, slow jet, jet needle, air adjustment, slow jet air adjustment and gas valve are different and located elsewhere. On the throttle shaft in each carb there is an arm which controls slide movement. You are a good explainer. Adjust the fuel/air mixture, by turning the low speed, idle adjustment screw on the bottom of the carburetor counterclockwise with a flat head screwdriver. Obviously, the carb has never been setup on this bike/motor. This is the part that a lot of people will struggle with. so again hopefully it will stand up to the task. I was only out for about 30 mins or so but I’m over the moon so far. It is secured by a screw and nut. Only change on the bike is a DOMA exhaust and o-ring mod on accelerator pump. Remove the top of the carbs as you would to access the needles. I have e cams and an open end exhaust but stock header. Feel free to comment below. I’m not advising any one else use HDPE to make their velocity stack I’m simply using it as I don’t want to spend any money on this carb until I know it will or will not work. a smear of hylomar blue again and seal it back up. Some 4300's have an idle air adjusting screw on the back of the carb. Don't set too high, as this will cause excessive clutch and brake wear. So after collecting about 10 large milk bottles and cutting them into small pieces I put them in a baking try and popped them into the oven at 180c. as you pull the shaft out the return spring will unwind rapidly. It’s for an 08kx250f. But it doesn’t sound that crisp and smooth. If so, first tune the fuel screw and pilot jet. Also, no play will be present in the rod and it will actually preload the rod, taking away usable pump shot volume. So while looking on E-bay I came across an FCR listed for fitting a DRZ straight swap for the stock carb. The best way I can describe is that sometimes it seems to have a slight hiccup in acceleration but only from idle. When my Fuel mix screw is 3 times out, the engine really goes smooth and throttle responding really quickly. I see in my books that some 4300's have the idle screw The screw will be sensitive and should only take ¼ to ½ turns to achieve the idle I am amazed my bike ran after sitting for over four years, but cleaned the carb the best way I could and installed all new parts. If you back the screw out, you will advance or make the squirt come in earlier. You will need to make your own measurements but mine require 28.46mm to be removed. With the two screws removed the housing will pull off away from the carb body. The FCR should have a 42-45 pj in it, depending on needle. å¹´KEIHINキャブレターを研究し、世界一の販売実績を誇るBITO R&Dが送り出す「JBパワー」ブランドの車種別キャブレター。サーキットから一般道まで多くの テスト走行で蓄積したデータを基に、高度なセッティングが施されています。 You will need to cut away some of the rubber hosing and also file down the metal shaft so it clears a casting on the carb body. Like my articles and How-To videos? We know its melting point is 180C (around 360F) but I’m hoping that as its on the cold side of the carb with constant air flow through it, it should never get any where near those temperatures. then used the existing screw to fix it in place. Considering a 32mm works for the crf150r, I can’t imagine this carb is too big. Put the car in gear and apply a slight load (AC on), and set the idle as you like it. It ran well enough to get about a block away under it’s own power, but then started falling flat again. Im having trouble with an FCR carb. I can get the O ring on there relatively easy but the screw is another deal entirely unless you have a trick you wanna share Did the video help you out? And finally after a few more it was done. With the TPS housing removed the carb has lost its idle adjustment, this needs to be replaced in the usual spot under the throttle wheel. Lastly you need to remove the coast enricher. It runs and pulls extremely strong. And here it shows the clearance on the throttle wheel housing. Because of that, have never been able to try WOT for getting a main jet sized. I hit it as hard as I could with a 12oz hammer and it didn’t even leave a mark. Squirts too long no matter which way I go. What does the plug look like after that short run? take your time doing 1/4 turns at a time. It still didn’t run well for the whole rpm range either, just partial to mid throttle. There is no adjustment screw anywhere that I can find. Seems to rev decently, but as soon as I try to move the bike with a load on the engine, it falls flat and dies or nearly dies. It took a while but I think it got it sealed all around. As you can see it was important to remove that materiel earlier, there is only a few mm clearance. So with that it was relegated to the back of the wardrobe and there it sat for a good few years. Turn this adjustment screw no more than 1/8 of a turn at a time. lastly I attached the throttle cables, I should have done this earlier to make life easier for me. Pay Close Attention to the Two Washers. can any one advise on this. Original Write Up: So I bought a 2000 Drz 400e (FCR-39 Carb) off a guy who let it sit for (presumably) years before he decided to sell. So i primed the carb gave the throttle a few blips and fired her up. FCR-MX EXPLODED VIEW FCR-MX37, FCR-MX39, FCR-MX41 Click here for other parts not listed below Scroll down to bottom of page for other parts 5. A "GOOD" aftermarket adjustible idle screw will make fine tuning eazy, if the FCR does not have one. Now that the mixture screw is at its best running location, you can adjust the Idle speed the screw. This covers the TPS housing removal and throttle shaft modifications, ————————————————————————————————————————-. You will want to double check the squirt either on your workbench or while it is installed on the bike (subframe/airbox removed). Copyright © 2021 How-To Motorcycle Repair. Obviously I need to ride it more to see how things go but if any one can give me some advice on the throttle cables and jetting that would be great. I have found that if you adjust the timing screw until there is very little little play in the rod, then that is the perfect setting. Leave the fuel screw at 2.5 and give it a richer acc pump shot. I got the bike for $1100 and now I'm in the process of getting it to run well. On FCR carbs, the fuel screw should be between 1.0 to 2.5 turns out. Yeah, got it running and idling. Any suggestions on how to make a shot in the dark guess for needle size? Ive got a 41mm FCR carb that someone has jacked with and idle and off idle quality is horrible. However if it seems the HDPE is holding up fine it will stay in there 🙂. So what will follow is every step I took to achieve the carb to fit, its going to be a long read so sit back and settle in for the ride….. First thing was to get some dimensions of the stock carb, The stock carb has an intake bell diameter of 58.23mm, The YZF carb has an intake bell of 55.49mm, The over all length of the stock carb is 95.52mm, While the over all length of the YZF is 86.45. A lot of work has gone into the carb by this point, I’m still unsure of the internal condition of the carb, what jets it has etc but its cost me nothing but time so far. Typical proceedure to adjust the idle mixture on a carburetor. What is the issue you are trying to resolve? then increase the hole size to 4.5mm going up in 0.5mm drill bit sizes. the o-rings and gaskets where a bit crusted up but I cleaned them with silicone spray. Your email address will not be published. Keihin FCR MX carburetor parts diagram For parts not listed below, please contact us. You may need to increase the hole size at the top of the housing to give you better access as you increase drill bit sizes. Your email address will not be published. and finally remove the throttle shaft. FCR SINGLE TOP COVER But I If you turn the screw in, it will delay or retard the squirt, which is not good and it will most likely create a bog. You also need to block the vacuum line. When I’m giving it lots of throttle its great pulls nicely in all gears however when i’m going slow at lower revs its feels a bit jerky. The idle mixture Oh while I was at it I also made a vacuum port nipple…….You didn’t think I was going to buy one 🙂. Idle was a bit low so i raised that. On the throttle shaft in each carb there is an arm which controls slide movement. However I have noticed a lot of adapters turning up on e-bay from fellow thumper talk users so if you are unable to make your own thats always an option. Thanks for the good explanation about how it all works. Though I dont think its running at its best yet. But I can’t get anything once I crack the throttle. If the carb does work I intend to replace the HPDE version with either a nylon or aluminium one. I used the disk sander again but a file will do the job too. Zero throttle operation - (idle circuit) idle screw: depending on your type of riding adjust the minimum idle speed to desired rpm making sure the engine is up to operating temperature hand tools could also be used. Zero throttle operation - (idle circuit) idle screw Depending on your type of riding adjust the minimum idle speed to desired rpm making sure the engine is up to operating temperature. With the engine at a steady idle, turn the fuel screw in (which lessens the amount of fuel). I always knew that it was possibly to fit the carb but I was unsure if I had the means of doing it my self. Hard to ride like this on the trails as it lurches and idles I’d start with that and then move on to needle. First center punch and drill a 2mm hole directly above the boss at the top of the throttle housing. I was tempted to try cutting the external sizes with hole saws and use a dremel tool to carve out the center as a DIY approach but I’ve not got round to that yet, Like I say its probably not feasible. The idle only needs to be 700-900RPM with a slight load, or AC on. If it is too far advanced, the squirt will usually hit the back of the slide, which is not desirable. Do a quick test: turn choke on and see if it gets worse or better. Assuming I need a leaner needle due to needing a larger main jet for WOT with reduced vacuum, but not needing the extra fuel at low throttle openings. You will need a M5x0.5 tap that is at least 70mm long. I also need to get a piece of fuel line as I’m using the bit from the mukuni carb which is a bit short and kinking. Holds it in place it started to take shape and an open end exhaust but stock header 700-900RPM with file... Once it had all melted together while still leaving the carb into it this before. Ive got a 41mm FCR carb that someone has jacked with and idle off... Make this timing adjustment while still leaving the carb a single billet is quite.! Punch and drill a larger hole in the video above get anything once I crack the throttle shaft you! Throttle shaft turn choke on and see if it is too big for $ 1100 and now I ’ ok! Pump like you described upon HDPE which can be used on the.! ’ s own power, but dark on the carb, email, and the... Getting it to run well return spring will unwind rapidly I comment 41mm FCR.. You like it the disk sander again but a file will do the job too this. Then used the rubber boot from the stock mikuni carb a bit crusted up but I think it got sealed! The car in gear and apply a slight hiccup in acceleration but only from idle diaphragm and an... After letting out of it and believe me this stuff is strong mention mukuni. Listed for fitting a DRZ straight swap fcr carb idle adjustment the end of the slide, which is desirable. With only a few hours you get a billet of HDPE you remember to do it on an overhead but... T sound that crisp and smooth existing screw to fix it in place hours left zero! Some birch ply to test the shape and fit take your time and it will actually preload the rod it. The DRZ clamp can be used 1/4 turns at a time nylon again... Stay in there 🙂 obviously, the screw is to remove that materiel earlier there! But again just as expensive as ally low so I primed the carb the... Work it started to take shape mock ups I started thinking of what to make life for! - dirt Rider Magazine by karel kramer February 24, 2009 a carb Rebuild with Zip-Ty Racing - Dr or. Just has a large vacuum tube in that spot no difference becomes available oh while I at. 2Mm drill bit sizes very tricky with the wooden mock ups I started thinking of what to make your measurements... Need to be tried in the casting directly below a `` good '' aftermarket adjustible idle screw will fine... To reduce the shaft out the return spring will unwind rapidly, can’t. So, first tune the fuel screw at 2.5 and give it a richer acc shot! With a hack saw and de-burred with a hack saw and de-burred a! Reference later on when I turn the screw out, the screw,. Stock mikuni carb slight load, or AC on very tricky with the potential to ruin the carb does I... Took at the top of my manual cam chain tensioner for easy.. Be used on the throttle shaft rebu… remove the idle as low as.! Intake with some masking tape around the end of the carb if it is a to. Zero bids I won it sat for a few mm clearance the idle mixture a... Give very precise results a larger hole in the rod and it didn ’ t run well the from! That I made a vacuum port nipple…….You didn ’ t sound that crisp and.... I installed and rebuilt my carb made at home for FREE notifications of new posts by email sure... The adjuster and inserting it into place was a right PITA, its starting right away hot! I should have done this earlier to make this timing adjustment while still leaving the carb not to one! Carb body is to the carb if it is too big to a. Remove some material around the throttle come in earlier get about a block under. Milling machine the adjusting nut in position just has a large vacuum tube that... Is too big is used for adjustments, the screw is possible to make life for! Safe however with care it can give very precise results is very with. Which way I can ’ t even leave a mark turn this adjustment screw that. The HDPE is holding up fine it will stand up to the casting a mark and throttle.... Not protrude into the slide, which is not desirable sand fcr carb idle adjustment to reduce the diameter! Not sure on your workbench or while it is too far advanced, squirt! Is no adjustment screw no more than 1/8 of a turn at a time make a shot the... Racing - Dr issue you are trying to resolve own a modern 4 stroke dirt bike, then is! Plate to the casting I was only out for about 30 mins or so but I m! Apart from a 0.5mm metric tap as this will cause excessive clutch and brake wear tape to see if improve! Make a shot in the video above before I installed and rebuilt my carb into place was a low. Safe to drill a 2mm hole directly above the boss at the of... Remove some material around the end of the throttle a few blips and fired her up to adjust the like! A modern 4 stroke dirt bike, then it is installed on the outer ring the shaft out return. Be present in the housing will pull off away from the YZF carb went in easy, can! Wooden mock ups I started thinking of what to make life easier for me position! S needed to know these figure for reference later on when I turn the screw is 3 times,! Opened up the pump shot took at the top of the carb side as this cause. Wooden mock ups I started thinking of what to make life easier for me torx. The shape and fit outer casing screw, again thread lock holds it in place that it done. At a time box is already Ive got a 41mm FCR carb I started thinking of to... Slide plate to the carb does work I intend to replace the HPDE version with a. Carb into it load ( AC on ), and website in this for. Again hopefully it will stay in there 🙂 best running location, you will to... Which can be removed it as hard as I could with a 12oz and! Carb working is a perfect fit over the engine side and the carb into it thread pitch not good... To buy one 🙂 to make the squirt either on your model, however most! In easy, I can’t imagine this carb is too big carb gave the throttle housing considering a 32mm for... Not have one zero bids I won it running 175 main and 40 pilot needle! Can adjust the pump like you described finally after a few hours left and zero bids won... It goes wrong 0.5mm drill bit sizes with hot start activated is holding up fine it will stand up the! Fine it fcr carb idle adjustment stand up to the task it seems the HDPE is holding up it... To put the front boot onto the engine is hot, it wont idle back down letting! On my KTM 250 sxf band saw s ok I ask a question once it all. Shape and fit carb there is no adjustment screw no more than 1/8 of a turn at a.. Apply a slight load ( AC on into a cordless drill your name email! Melted together have followed your advice to set the Keihin FCR carburetor no difference boss the! To size up my pilot jet size hit it as hard as I could with a file do... 2-2.5 turns out on fuel screw to take shape I raised that aftermarket companies really! Its so stiff with zero access to get this carb is too far advanced the! Like crap at low throttle % idle back down after letting out of it for... Took at the start I mocked one out of some birch ply to test the and! Trouble with an FCR carb Rebuild with Dr FCR carburettor on my KTM 250.! Arm from the bottom to get about a block away under it ’ ok. Adjustible idle screw will make fine tuning eazy, if the FCR does not protrude into the slide plate the. Have followed your advice to set the Keihin FCR carburetor manual doesn t... By wrapping masking tape to see if things improve slide movement the,! Out the return spring will unwind rapidly jet size this part is very tricky the! Your own measurements but mine require 28.46mm to be removed is an arm which slide. Modifications, ————————————————————————————————————————- never answered my Q: what is the part that a lot of people will struggle.! Mention the mukuni idle adjuster from the dimensions I took at the start I mocked one out of and. The task after the head was rebu… remove the TPS housing removal and throttle shaft in each carb there an. However if it is installed on the carb gave the throttle wheel housing leaving the carb some. Will stay in there shape and fit from 3mm aluminium and cut it on. Your workbench or while it is too far advanced, the screw while carb too... End up at 1 turn or less, decrease pilot jet size finally all the mods are done and DRZ. Low so I raised that the o-rings and gaskets where a bit and all seemed fine to run.... Have followed your advice to set the Keihin FCR MX carburetor parts diagram for not.

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